The $17 can of tuna fish: a lesson in retail marketing

I like the Zingerman’s catalog. I look forward to receiving it the way I look forward to getting all the food magazines I subscribe to. I think of Ari Weinzweig as the Richard Thalheimer of the food world. I even sent a $27 coffee cake to a friend’s mom as a get well gift. She, being old school, knew I’d been robbed, that even if it was the greatest coffee cake ever baked it couldn’t be worth the $42 including shipping that I’d paid. I was ignorant of this fact. I was charmed by Zingerman’s and I would have continued to be charmed and continued to shop there if it hadn’t been for a $17 can of tuna fish.

The tuna in question was Ortiz “Ventresca” tuna fish. A canned version of toro and written about in such a way by Mr.Weinzweig as to make not ordering a can almost an unthinkable act. Hell you could save $4 by ordering 4 cans for a measly $64 and this tuna was so good that I was actually considering doing this. Keep in mind that these prices are before shipping, so that $17 can of tuna is really a $20+ can of tuna by the time you get your hands on it.


The problem is that Ortiz sells Ventresca tuna fish in the supermarket. I found it in Wegman’s in Bridgewater, and I found it for $8.99, yeah, $8.99, a 47% savings over the Zingerman’s price. Now I’ll grant you that Zingerman’s probably doesn’t buy things at the same price that Wegman’s does and so they have to charge more but almost double?




Ari, you marketing genius, here’s a lesson: don’t try to hit homeruns on easily shopped items. I’ve learned this in my business. You can make a huge mark up on that coffee cake but you’ve got to be competitive on the tuna because when you get caught, and trust me with the internet you’re going to get caught, it raises doubts about everything else you sell.

By the way, that tuna is great; great for canned tuna that is. I’m not sure it’s worth even the $8.99 price for less than a pound but it was worth trying. Go to Zingerman’s, it’s a fun place to shop if you’re into food. Just think twice before buying anything.

Firecracker Calamari at An American Grill

A Dish Worth Driving For

What: The “Firecracker” Calamari
Where: An American Grill, 246 Rt. 10, Randolph NJ (973)442-9311.
Website:

I think it was Milton Berle who said “I know I good joke when I steal one”. Same applies to restaurant dishes. The firecracker calamari at An American Grill in Randolph might well remind you of the Santa Fe calamari at Tim Schaeffer’s in Morristown. It should, AAG owner Lou Reda will admit, when he’s in the mood, to having lifted this dish from “the Beer Chef”. Reda will insist that he played around with the dish and improved on it and maybe he’s right. I haven’t been to Tim Schaeffer’s in a long time but I do remember having this dish there and liking it.

Now I go to AAG at least twice a month to eat calamari, talk with Lou Reda and whomever else might be in the bar and drink some Mark West Pinto Noir by the glass or some Hacker Pshcorr Weiss Beer. You can only taste four things: sweet, sour, salty and spicy and this dish hits them all. I love the saltiness of the kalamata olives and the capers, the sweet and sour notes of the balsamic vinegar, the sweetness that comes from the tomatoes, and the heat from whatever kind of peppers they’re using, the crunch of the perfectly cooked calamari. The secret of this dishes’ success is time. That’s what Lou’s told me. You can’t move the calamari around in the pan too much or it won’t get crunchy enough. Whoever they’ve got working in the kitchen has learned this lesson. I can’t think of any time I’ve ordered this and been unsatisfied.

So go and go soon. I don’t make recommendations lightly. This is the kind of dish worth driving an hour for. There’s lots of other good food at An American Grill, a lamb sandwich lunch special comes to mind, but I really haven’t ordered anything but this calamari in months. Go there and find out why.

Piyaz: Turkish White Bean Salad

Piyaz: Turkish White Bean Salad

Here’s a simple dish made with cannellini beans that’s great for warm weather. I got the concept from a recipe in John Thorn’s Simple Cooking. I’ve made this so many times that I’m not sure if I’m still being true to his version. My rendition does get the seal of approval from my Turkish brother-in-law so it can’t be that bad. Here’s what you need:

1 18oz can* of Cannellini beans
¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil
1 large clove of garlic, or more to taste
1 large green bell pepper
½ large red onion
flat leaf parsley
lemon juice
kosher salt
red pepper flakes

*The exact size of the can of beans will vary slightly by brand, for example Goya has a 15.5 oz. can and Progresso a 19 oz. one. This will make little difference in the finished product.

In a bowl large enough to hold all the ingredients pour in the olive oil and add the red pepper flakes, using as much or as little as you like depending on your tolerance for heat. Remember, red pepper flakes lose intensity with age so try to use fresh ones.

Mince the garlic along with the kosher salt and work together into a paste on your cutting board. How much kosher salt? A pinch should give you enough grit to work the garlic to the desired consistency. Add this mixture to the oil.

Chop the green pepper and red onion into a small dice and add them to the mixing bowl. Could you use a white or yellow onion here? Yes, but part of the reason to use the red onion is for the contrast in color to the white beans and the green pepper.

Take the can of beans and add them, liquid and all, to a small sauce pan and bring them up to a simmer. You do not want to bring the beans to a full boil. When the beans have begun to bubble remove them from the heat, strain off the liquid and add the hot beans to the mixing bowl. Cover and let the mixture sit at room temperature for at least one hour.

Just before serving add the lemon juice and parsley. How much of each you use depends, again, or your taste. I start with the juice of half a lemon and start tasting. The Turkish brother-in-law says that the use of a lot of parsley is what makes this dish uniquely Turkish but I’ve gotten by without it in a pinch. What I like best is the mixture of the creaminess of the beans, the heat of the red pepper, the crunch of the green pepper and onion, and the way the raw garlic lingers after you’ve finished eating.